Day 4/Hike Day 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite

Greetings from Stonethwaite in Lake District National Park! We had a challenging but breathtaking (in a good way, and a tiring way) hike full of varied terrain, varied weather, and lots of sheep!

We departed the Shepherd Arms Hotel this morning around 8 am and began our hike by walking around Ennerdale Water, a lake created by a small dam. The lake, surrounded by mountains and the green pastures we’ve come to know and love, was such a pleasant way to start our morning. The sun peaked into and out of the clouds, and a temperature around 60 made for perfect hiking weather.

Departing The Shepherd Arms Hotel

Ennerdale Water in the background on a beautifully serene morning

Some fantastic terrain along the edge of the lake. It felt like it was straight out of Lord of the Rings.

"Yes, Dad. This is the way."

Shortly after departing from the lake, we began our ascent to High Stile, the second-highest point we will reach on this trek. The ascent, although only a mile, took us about an hour and fifteen minutes. A gusting north headwind reminded us how quickly the weather can change here: our balmy hike along the lake quickly turned into a misty, foggy 45 degree ascent.

Our initial "views" from the top of High Stile.

The view-ish from the ridge just as the clouds started to clear. Don't worry: it gets better! And less windier (pardon my face!)

Fortunately we had many sheep friends to guide us on our way: we were amazed at how many of them chose to spend their time at the top of this hill. Research when we got in showed these were Herdwick Sheep, and my goodness are they adorable. This internet description I came upon was too good not to share: “Herdwick sheep, native to the Lake District, are a territorial breed bred on the Cumbrian hillsides and fells of Northern England. Mottled brown and grey fleece and a pondering expression (so true!), they are stubborn and tough but with a tender temperament.” I couldn’t have said it better myself: believe me, I’ve already looked into American imports of these cool sheep.

The fog and mist had set in such that we were unable to view much of anything from the top of High Stile. We met up with a half dozen other hikers along this route, and a common refrain was, “I’m so happy to see other people up here: it must mean I’m going the right way!” Fortunately as we descended slightly to High Crag, the clouds and mist broke, and beautiful views of the Lake District opened up before us. It was a magical moment, and we were all happy to see the sun again.

At last, the million dollar view of Buttermere (lake) and the surrounding "hills"

We continued along the ridge to the Haystacks, where we enjoyed some rock scrambling and more beautiful vistas. We then descended to two tarns (small lakes/large ponds), followed by a fun visit to an abandoned slate quarry.

Mid-rock scramble on the Haystacks

At the top of Haystacks

Dad in the slate house at the old slate mine

Perhaps the most exciting part of the day was as we started the descent to Barrowdale: apparently the Royal Air Force was doing some fighter jet training today, and we got what was perhaps the most up-close and personal view of their training flights. I managed to capture one on video. Fair warning to check your volume setting before watching it: if you can imagine, it was even louder in person.

Once we reached Barrowdale, we had just a few more miles before reaching our destination: the Langstrath Inn in Stonethwaite. We had a delicious dinner while watching the sheep graze in the pasture behind the Inn while Taylor Swift music serenaded the dining room (Meg, your spirit has found us here!). We are looking forward to tomorrow and our (much shorter) adventure into Grassmere!

Entering Stonethwaite. And/or traveling back in time 800 years. Hard to say.

In front Langstrath Country Inn, our stay for the night.

Kelsey and Brian

Distance Hiked: 17.34 miles

Elevation Gain: 3,926

Steps: 42,624

Gates traversed: 11

UK Breeds Seen: Dogs: English pointer, English Labradors (I think they can count. They are so blocky and jolly!)

Sheep: Herdswick, Shetland